ON THE GRILL

 "Everyone likes the barbecued bird better," says Linda Lau Anusasanan, senior food writer for Sunset Magazine. "It's superior to what you get from the oven when it comes to a combination of flavor and crisper skin."

 The Sunset method calls for indirect heat, whether for a charcoal or gas grill.

 "Charcoal will give you consistently good results," says Anusasanan. "Certainly gas is more convenient, but go with charcoal to get flavor and more control."

 One of the problems is that gas grills are not set up for efficient cooking with the indirect-heat method.

 "Not all allow you to do indirect grilling," she says. "You need one you can turn off heat off in the center. A lot have side-by-side burners, so consult your owner's manual to see if it's possible."

 Anusasanan says that a grill will get as hot as a conventional oven. "The secret is closing all the heat in," she says. "I wouldn't advise looking to check on charcoal."

 The Sunset method is very specific on the amount of coals and when to add new ones. Figure you will be opening the grill every 30 minutes to add more coals. Don't lift off the cover in between those periods.

 As for flavorings, Anusasanan suggests wine-soaked wood chips.

 "Fruitwoods work best," she says because they have a sweeter flavor. "Hickory is strongest and one of the most available. Mesquite is popular here in the West."

 Barbecued Turkey

 1 (10 to 30 pound) turkey

 Olive or salad oil.

 Remove and discard leg truss from turkey. Pull off and discard lumps of fat. Remove giblets and neck and rinse bird inside and out; pat dry with towels. Rub turkey skin with oil.

 To barbecue with charcoal, use a 20- to 22-inch-wide barbecue with a lid. Mound and ignite 40 charcoal briquets on fire grate. When coals are spotted with gray ash, in about 20 minutes, push equal portions to opposite side of fire grate. Place a metal drip pan between coals. To mound coals add 5 briquets now and every 30 minutes while cooking. Set grill 4 to 6 inches above coals. Set turkey, breast side up, on grill over drip pan.

 To barbecue with gas, use a gas barbecue with indirect heat controls. Heat should be parallel to each side of the bird with no heat down the center. Turn heat to high, close lid and heat for 10 minutes. Set a metal drip pan in center. Set grill in place. Set turkey, bread side up, on grill over drip pan. Close lid.

 Use a meat thermometer to check doneness near end of allotted cooking times. Stick thermometer into thickest part of turkey. Internal temperatures should be 160 degrees.

 Let turkey rest 15-30 minutes before carving.

 (Recipe adapted from Sunset Magazine.)

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