Nestled cozily beside the Pacific a short drive south of the U.S. border is a Baja California oasis perfect for a little RR -- romance and relaxation.

La Fonda is so close to the ocean that its waters lull you to sleep at night and then wake you gently the next morning -- an alarm clock that soothes rather than startles.

The laid-back resort, chiseled in the architecture of old Mexico, takes pride in its rustic atmosphere. It consists of a restaurant, a 26-room hotel and four town houses. Reservations are scrawled in a raggedy notebook, dining-room menus are written on chalkboards and the service moves at its own poky pace.

All the rooms have ocean views (and not the kind where you have to stand on tiptoe or peer through a tree to see it) and, at $65 a night, that's a bargain.

Certain rooms offer more privacy for those who have come for a romantic getaway. But there's not a bad room in the place, and the accommodations are so quaint that if it wasn't for the mouth-watering food and drink, you might never want to leave their confines. But walk down to the restaurant anyway. You won't be sorry.

When you enter the restaurant, a sign that reads "seat your beautiful selves" serves as a sunny welcome and signals that it's time to enjoy the best of what La Fonda has to offer.

Here's just a sampler to tickle your taste buds: Start with banana pancakes accompanied by coconut syrup. At midday, there is a variety of fresh fish from which to choose. And then for dinner -- the most important meal in La Fonda -- try the lobster dinner: Four lobsters (cracked open and ready to enjoy when you get them), rice, refried beans, salad, soup and Mexican coffee, all for less than $25.

Potent margaritas (some guests have been known to send them back to be watered down), banana daiquiris almost too beautiful to drink or maybe a Tecate beer can help wash it all down.

Lunching outside on the lush patio allows you to listen to the sweet melodies of mariachi music combined with the ocean's roar. A glance to the water might even afford a look at dolphins soaring in synchronization. At night during dinner, heat lamps keep guests and their food toasty.

After dinner, it's time either to hit the dance floor or belly up to the bar for an after-dinner drink. Expect crowds in both places. A band plays Fridays and Saturdays, but if you're looking for music from Billboard's Top 40, go somewhere else. Only mellow tunes allowed. The nearby Hotel La Mision, well within walking distance, has a bar that caters to 20-somethings. But expect it to be busy over there, too.

Ah yes, the crowds.

The popularity of this oceanfront jewel has exploded in recent years. Reservations are hard to come by and must be booked well in advance.

Owner Orest Dmytriw, who operates La Fonda with his wife, Sara, is amazed at the resort's growth. "We had 11 employees in '78, and now we have 94," he says. And even more growth is planned.

Dmytriw, who bought the land in 1974, says the resort will offer steam rooms, massage rooms and whirlpool baths in the future. So much for its rustic image.

Dmytriw says the resort is busy all week long year-round. "During the week we get all the service people from San Diego. I pick their brains for my menus."

Although he claims there is no off-season in La Fonda, Dmytriw says that room rates are often negotiable during nonsummer months. He says inclement weather can drive room rates down, so remember to negotiate.

If a room isn't available, there's always the campground behind the Hotel La Mision. It is only $5 a night and if you're a surfer you'll fit right in with the camping crowd.

If you want to eat cheaply, there's a taco stand next to the general store. The store, which doesn't believe in correct change, carries everything from Vick's Vapo-Rub to Corona beer.

Although it has become a popular surf spot, La Fonda isn't exactly bustling with vacation-style activity. It's not a popular fishing hole or hang-gliding haven. And that's its appeal. It's a great place to watch the sun dip behind the horizon or go for a walk on the beach. Or do nothing but breathe the smog-free, ocean air.

And although it's only a three-hour drive from the Inland Empire, it's another world entirely.

La Fonda, Mexico

Getting there: La Fonda is about 40 miles south of the U.S.-Mexico border along the Mexico Route 1-D toll road. In Mexico, this highway is called the Ensenada Scenic Road. There are two $1.95 tolls along the way. To get to the resort, use the La Mision offramp. Go left on the free road and the La Fonda hotel/restaurant is about 200 yards up on the right.

Documents: If you drive in Mexico, buying a Mexican auto-insurance policy is highly recommended even if your American policy covers you in Mexico. It is available at drive-through facilities near the border. Bring personal identification, vehicle registration and proof of insurance. Naturalized citizens should have a certificate of citizenship. Visits longer than 72 hours require a tourist card, which can be obtained t no charge from a Mexican immigration office.

Cost: Room rates are $65 or $75. Rates during nonsummer months are sometimes negotiable.

Reservations: Write to PO Box 430268, San Ysidro, CA 92143. Allow at least two weeks for confirmation. The resort does not take reservations by phone.

Published 8/15/1999